Vendors, diagrams, reviews


Aftermarket Vendors
Most of the weatherstripping offered by the aftermarket is manufactured by either SoffSeal or Metro, so just shop around for the best prices.

Weatherstripping Diagrams

The following images are from the 1967 Fisher Body Parts Illustrations Book.
Click thumbnails to enlarge

1967 Two Door Weatherstrips (Typical)
1STRIP, Shroud Vent Grille Sealing 12800
2RETAINER, Windshield Lower Corner Sealing (exc. Cadillac) (1966 only)10096
3RETAINER, Windshield Pillar Upper Corner Weatherstrip10093
4 WEATHERSTRIP, Compartment Lid Gutter12269
5CHANNEL ASSY., Quarter Window Glass Run Rear11021
6 CHANNEL ASSY., Quarter Window Glass Run Front 11021
7 STRIP ASSY., Quarter Window Glass Run Inner and Outer11015
8WEATHERSTRIP ASSY., Front Door10694
9CHANNEL ASSY., Door Window Glass Run10701
10STRIP ASSY., Door Window Glass Run Inner and Outer10710
11 RETAINER, Windshield Pillar Weatherstrip10093
12RETAINER, Side Roof Rail Weatherstrip10721
13 WEATHERSTRIP ASSY., Side Roof Rail10721
14 WEATHERSTRIP ASSY., Quarter Window Frame 11015

1967 Convertible Weatherstrips (Typical)
1STRIP, Shroud Vent Grille Sealing12.800
2WEATHERSTRIP ASSY., Front Roof Rail14.060
3WEATHERSTRIP ASSY., Side Roof Rail Front14.120
4WEATHERSTRIP ASSY., Side Roof Rail Center14.190
5WEATHERSTRIP ASSY., Side Roof Rail Rear14.260
6WEATHERSTRIP, Compartment Gutter12.269
7WEATHERSTRIP ASSY., Folding Top Compartment Side Panel13.352
8STRIP ASSY., Quarter Window Glass Run Inner and Outer11.015
9WEATHERSTRIP, Outer Window Frame11.015
10STRIP ASSY., Door Window Glass Run Inner and Outer10.710
12WEATHERSTRIP ASSY., Windshield Pillar10.694

1967 Four Door Sedans Weatherstrips (Typical)

1WEATHERSTRIP, Front Door Ventilator10.652
2WEATHERSTRIP, Front Door Ventilator Division Channel10.686
3CHANNEL, Front Door Window Glass Run Front10.686
4STRIP, Shroud Ventilator Grille Sealing12.800
5CHANNEL, Door Window Glass Run10.701
6CHANNEL, Rear Door Window Glass Run10.759
7WEATHERSTRIP, Compartment Gutter12.269
8WEATHERSTRIP, Rear Door10.694
9STRIP ASSY., Rear Door Window Glass Run Inner and Outer10.774
10STRIP ASSY., Front Door Window Glass Run Inner and Outer10.710
11WEATHERSTRIP, Front Door10.694
12VENTILATOR ASSY., Front Door Less Glass10.650

1967 Four Door Sport Sedan Weatherstrips (Typical)

1WEATHERSTRIP, Front Door Ventilator10652
2WEATHERSTRIP, Front Door Ventilator Division Channel10686
3CHANNEL, Front Door Window Glass Run Front10686
4VENTILATOR ASSY., Front Door Less Glass10650
5STRIP, Shroud Ventilator Grille Sealing12800
6RETAINER, Windshield Pillar Upper Corner Weatherstrip (39 Styles)10093
7RETAINER, Windshield Pillar Weatherstrip (39 Styles)10093
8RETAINER, Windshield Lower Corner Sealing (exc. Cadillac) (1966 only)10096
9WEATHERSTRIP, Rear Door Window Frame Vertical (39 Styles)10764
10WEATHERSTRIP, Compartment Lid Gutter12269
11RETAINER, Side Roof Rail Weatherstrip (39 Styles)10721
12WEATHERSTRIP, Side Roof Rail (39 Styles)10721
13RETAINER, Side Roof Rail Weatherstrip Front (69 Styles)10721
14RETAINER, Side Roof Rail Weatherstrip Rear (69 Styles)10721
15RETAINER, Center Pillar Upper Corner Weatherstrip Rear (69 Styles)10730
16RETAINER, Center Pillar Upper Corner Weatherstrip Front (69 Styles)10730
17WEATHERSTRIP ASSY., Side Roof Rail Front (69 Styles)10721
18WEATHERSTRIP ASSY., Side Roof Rail Rear (69 Styles)10721
19RETAINER, Center Pillar Weatherstrip Front and Rear Upper (69 Styles)10730
20WEATHERSTRIP ASSY., Front Door10694
21STRIP ASSY., Front Door WIndow Glass Run Inner and Outer10710
22WEATHERSTRIP ASSY., Rear Door10694
23STRIP ASSY., Rear Door Window Glass Run Inner and Outer10774

Basic Weatherstrip Installation Instructions

(borrowed from Lonestart Car Parts)

(Please read all instructions before starting your project)

Use the checklist below for tools and supplies that may be used for your weatherstrip installation. Most of these items can be found in your garage or workshop.

Supply Checklist
  • Pliers
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Flat tip screwdriver
  • Side cutters
  • Hammer and dolly, for A-Arm staples only
  • Razor blade or sharp knife
  • Door handle removal tool
  • Door panel removal tool
  • Scraper, metal or plastic
  • Squeegee, plastic or hard rubber
  • Wire brush
  • Heat gun or hair dryer
  • Spray bottle of water or glass cleaner
  • Weatherstrip adhesive—we recommend 3M brand #3M8008
  • Weatherstrip adhesive release agent—we recommend 3M brand #3M8971
  • Weatherstrip adhesive solvent
  • Factory assembly manual for your specific vehicle

PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are written for weatherstrip replacement and are for typical installations. Some cars or trucks may require slightly different steps.

Door Weatherstripping

Hardtop & Convertible Doors
  • First fasten one end by installing the screws or black plastic anchor pins provided. Place a small amount of adhesive on the mounting side first.
  • Continue applying adhesive to the rubber between the pins, about a foot at a time. Anchor the pins in place with thumb pressure, working your way around the door.
  • When your reach the end, install the screws or black plastic anchor pins provided. Place a small amount of adhesive on the mounting side first.

Sedan & Truck Doors
  • Non-molded ends, on the bottom side of the door two pin holes are close together. Start installation at this point. Work your way around the door until the entire weatherstrip is installed.
      » Molded ends, start at the upper rear corner and apply a light strip of weatherstrip adhesive on the under side of the rubber up to the first anchor pin in each direction. Then install those two pins with firm pressure.
  • Continue applying adhesive to the rubber between the pins, about a foot at a time. Anchor the pins in place with thumb pressure, working your way around the door.
      » Some models use a strip that’s already assembled in a complete circle. Others use a strip that has two anchor pins very close to the end. After installing the last two pins, allowing ¼“ extra for compression fit, cut the excess rubber off squarely, apply adhesive to the ends, and allow the seam to dry.
  • After installation, check your door alignment for proper fit. New weather-stripping is made to fit correct factory gaps.


Removing old Weather-strip
  • Use a scraper to remove any stubborn chunks of rubber or glue. Be sure to clean any dirt, rust or debris out of the groove. Now is the time to paint your car if applicable.

Installing Your New trunk Weather-strip
  • Use a heat gun or blow dryer on the underside of the trunk groove to loosen the old glue. We recommend performing this step before painting your car. If your car is already painted, be careful not to apply too much heat and discolor your paint.
  • The preferred method is to use 3M Release Agent. Start at the seam and apply liberal amounts of release agent as you pull up on the old weather-strip. Continue until weather-strip is completely removed. You can use the release agent to remove any glue residue without harming your painted surfaces.
  • Run a small amount of weather-strip adhesive inside the groove. Do a small section at a time.
      Hint: cut a small piece of squeegee to fit the groove and use it to apply the adhesive.
      Clipped trunk seals: Locate area where two pin holes are close together. Start installation at this point. Work your way around trunk until the entire weather-strip is installed.
  • At 6”-8” off the center of the rear of the trunk, near the lock cylinder, begin inserting the new weather-strip making certain both locking edges are fully installed and that the sealing edge faces outward from the interior of the trunk.
  • Start the glue 8" after the center and continue to about 8" before center. Cut the end squarely, allowing ¼" extra for a tight bond. Apply adhesive to the trunk channel and to the ends. Hold the ends together for a moment, and then insert the weather-strip into the groove. The job is complete.
  • Check the alignment of your trunk lid. Weather-stripping is designed to fit factory gaps.
      » Note: Do not overlook your body seams as a source of leaks .The weather-stripping is the correct height and tolerance as the original. Do not use your old flattened weather-stripping as a gauge for fit.


Remove old roof rail weather-strips
  • To remove the old roof rail weather-strip, extract the black plastic anchor pins or screws from the molded ends (some models have two molded ends) with side cutters and squeegee.
  • Pull the old rubber firmly away from the channel with steady pressure. Use 3 M Release Agent to remove old glue if necessary. Be sure to thoroughly clean the channel with a scraper or wire brush.
      » Hint: tape sides of channel to avoid scratching stainless or chrome surfaces.

Installing your new Roof rail Weather-strips
  • Start at the front and install the black plastic anchor pins or screws in the molded ends. Remember, apply a small amount of adhesive in the channel, not to the weather-strip.
  • Insert the main section of the strip into the channel, working your way around, front to back. Use a plastic or hard rubber squeegee to tuck the rubber into the locking edges of the channel.

      Models with two molded ends
      » On models with two molded ends, work your way to the rear and install the screws or anchor pins. The job is done.
      » The roof rail is under stress when the door is opened and closed, so apply adhesive sparingly. With the excellent fit of our products, a small amount of adhesive will hold the roof rail in place.

      Models with one molded end
      » On models with an end that disappears into the body, work to the end of the channel, leaving 2" of excess rubber. Tuck the excess into the roof and quarter panel area. The job is complete.
      » Note: Some adjustments may be necessary to moldings for proper fit during reassembly.


Remove old pillar post weather-strips
  • Remove the screws at the top and bottom.
    »Warning! The edges of the channel that secure the rubber are often very sharp, and removing the rubber exposes these edges. Be very careful!
  • Next, grasp the strip and pull it away from the channel. Use liberal amounts of 3M Release Agent to dissolve the old adhesive.
  • Once the old pillar post weather-strip is removed you can clean the channel.
  • A wire brush can be helpful in removing small or stubborn particles. Watch out for sharp edges, and be careful not to scratch your channel.
    » Hint: A piece of tape down each side will help prevent scratching the polished surfaces.

Installing your new Pillar Post Weather-strips
  • Apply a small amount of weather-strip adhesive to channel before installing pillar post.
  • Next, start at either the top or bottom and begin to fasten the new weather-strip in place by installing the screws or black plastic anchor pins provided.
  • Now, starting at the fastened end, tuck the strip into the channel with a hard rubber or plastic squeegee. The weather-strip has locking grooves for correct fit.
  • Once the strip is fully inserted, install the screws or black plastic anchor pins at the other end. Repeat the same steps for the other side of the car, and you’re finished.
    » Note: Some adjustments may be necessary to moldings for proper fit during reassembly.


Remove old convertible top weatherstrips
  • Begin by raising the top to a comfortable working position. Remove the screws at each front corner that anchor the weather-stripping to the top irons.
  • Now remove the three sections of weather-stripping on each side rail of your top. They are held in place by screws and factory adhesive. Remove the screws and pull off by hand. Use 3M Release Agent if necessary. You may find it necessary to raise or lower the top to gain access to the screws in the rear piece.
  • Next, remove the header seal (the seal against the windshield top). It is fastened with nylon pins that will tear out and have to be removed with side cutters (some models also use glue). Your new part has them installed.
  • Once all the weather-stripping is removed you must carefully clean the metal surfaces of the top irons so the new adhesive will hold firmly.

Installing your new Convertible Top Weather-strips
  • At one corner, install the new header seal by inserting the nylon pins in their corresponding holes using firm thumb pressure.
  • Install the front section rail weather-strip on each side. Use some adhesive where they meet with the header seal. Next install the remaining sections.
    For glued header seals locate the area where two pin holes are close together. Start installation at this point. Work your way around until installation is complete.
  • Close the top while the adhesive dries making sure no excess oozes out. This could cause your header seal to stick to the window frame. The job is complete.
    » Note: Some adjustments may be necessary during reassembly.


Installing your new A-Arm Seals
When using existing inner fenders, you will be able to use the existing staple holes. If not, you’ll have to drill new ones.
» Note: inner fenders have a flat area on the underside where the seals attach.
  • First, if applicable, install the lower seal.
    » Note: seals have a locating notch to help you align them properly with bolts.
  • To help hold the seal in proper position while your partner installs the staples, you may find it useful to insert straight pins through the staple holes. Use a block of wood to hold the seal and prevent finger pricks.
    » Note: some seals are fitted into place behind body bolts and washers.
  • When the seal is properly located and positioned, have your partner shove the staples through and hold a hammer on the staple while you use another hammer to flatten the staple firmly in place.
  • Now install the main seals in the same manner. In most cases, the inner fender is shaped in such a fashion that will help you position the seal properly.
    » Note: the seal fits around the flat area provided on the bottom side of inner fender. In this case the longer end flap goes toward the front of the car.
  • As before, your partner will need to hold a hammer or other heavy object on the head of the staple in the engine compartment while you flatten the underside.
    » The new A-Arm seals add a detailed look to your engine compartment.


Your hood insulation kit comes complete with reproduction plastic retainer clips (for most models). Some models have no clips and must be glued. Check before you start the installation, as outlined below.

NOTE: The side with the mottled appearance (top of photo) faces outs and should show once installed. The darker solid black side is the back side.

Installing your new Hood Insulation
  • Start at one outer corner. The pre-punched holes line up with the holes in the hood. Put retainer anchor end through insulation hole and line up.
  • Then, use thumb pressure to anchor the pins in place.
  • Next, work your way toward the other corner, making sure all retainers are locked in place. Be sure to locate all of the anchor pin holes. They are especially important in the middle of your hood.
  • Finished! Note the new factory appearance the hood insulation adds.

Remove the old quarter window seals
  • To remove the old seals, it may be necessary to first remove the old door jamb that attaches with 3 or 4 screws, depending on the model of your car.
  • Now remove the screws, if any, at the base of the old seal.
  • With a pair of pliers, grip the seal at the bottom and pull down firmly. Use your other hand at the middle of the strip to help slide it out and keep the chrome from coming off the window. Use a wire brush to clean out any rust, dirt, or debris.
    » Note: Place a strip of masking tape over the outside of the metal channel to help protect the chrome from being scratched by the wire brush.
  • Use 3 M Release Agent to remove any old adhesive.

Installing your new Quarter Window Seals
  • Spray water or Windex to the back of the new seal to make it easier to slide into the channel. On models that do not have screws to anchor them in place, apply a light bead of adhesive to the inside of the channel.
  • Now slide the seal into place and replace any screws and reattach the rubber door jamb. The job is done.
» Caution: If you are rechroming your quarter window channel, care should be taken to protect the side channel from chrome plating. Heavy chromed channels may cause a very tight fit when installing quarter seals.


Hood Bumpers
Hood bumpers are a must for proper hood fit. Note slot in fender and matching anchor on rubber bumper. Just slide the bumper anchors through “key hole” into slot, and you’re finished. Adjustable hood bumpers cushion the impact of the hood when it is shut. Old, flat and cracked pieces can cause damage to your hood. It takes only a second to install new rubber cushions. Be sure your hood is already adjusted to the proper height for your new rubber parts.

Door Bumpers
To install door bumpers, align arrowhead-type anchors with holes in door and push in with thumb. It may be necessary to insert a blunt object in the bumper hole to put pressure on the anchor heads to pop them through the holes. Be careful not to tear the rubber. Water or Windex will help lubricate the part.

Glove Box Bumpers
The little rubber “stoppers” or bumpers for the glove box lids, console lids, license plate, brackets, etc. are easy to change. They prevent rattles and damage from constant opening and closing.

Trunk bumpers
Replace flattened, cracked and hardened trunk bumpers by popping out the old ones with a screwdriver. Line up the anchor tip with factory hole, and push. With a little water or Windex for lubricant, thumb pressure is all you will need to install new trunk bumpers.

Tips and Tricks

  • Here's a trick for checking how well the door/window weatherstrip seals. Cut strips of newspaper and close the door with the strips between the weatherstrip and the metal door post. If you can easily pull the strip out with the door closed, the weatherstrip is not sealing tightly enough.
  • There are a couple other ways of finding a source of an interior leak. One is to simply get inside your car and have a buddy hit the outside of the car with a water hose in the suspected area while you're inside watching for leaks. Another is to have a smoker inside the car with the heater blower motor on. While he blows smoke into the suspect areas you can watch for smoke exiting the car where the weatherstripping isn't making a proper seal.

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