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I want to convert my '67 442 from a points-type to an HEI
ignition. What do I need?
All you need is an HEI distributor for a '74-'80 Olds V-8 with vacuum advance. (If it
does not have the vacuum advance, it's for a computer-controlled motor and will not work.)
I believe the dealer still sells these distributors. I have seen GM remanufactured HEI's
at some parts stores, or you can go aftermarket. You will need to do some minor rewiring
to get it in.
Will my stock alternator handle larger
electrical loads, like a large stereo?
The standard A-body alternator is rated at 37 amps. With A/C or heavy duty cooling, it's
rated at 55 amps, and with a rear window defroster or police package it's increased to 63
amps. My '85 Toronado has power everything, so it got the optional 78-amp alternator.
If you install an alternator rated higher than your stock unit, it will simply put out
only as much power as requested from the vehicle's components. Anything more than that
could be considered extra capacity, or a reserve. Nothing bad would happen if you put an
80 or 100 amp alternator on it, but it probably is overkill. If you don't have power
accessories, A/C, or a big stereo, you really don't need anything bigger than a stock 63
amp alternator. Your 67's original alternator is externally regulated, so make sure you
get the same thing as a replacement. (An internally-regulated alternator will require some
rewiring (or unwiring) to install.)
I want to convert my externally-regulated alternator to internally regulated? What do I need?
???????
I have changed over twice on 66's. On one car I bought an alternator extension
harness for the old style and switched one plug end for the 10si plug. I also added the
diode for my MSD. I did not damage the original harness. At the regulator I took an old
one and gutted it and connected terminal 1 to 4 and 2 to 3. If you clock alternator right
its hard to notice the change.
On the other car I used a damaged harness. I added a wire to the fuse block for an HEI and
removed regulator connection. Only connection to alternator was idiot light to terminal 1.
Terminal 2 was looped to battery connection. I wrapped with harness tape and it looks like
factory issue.
The battery in my Olds keeps going dead. What
should I look for?
If you don't have a trunk/interior/underhood light staying on, or a high-powered stereo
w/clock & preset memory pulling the battery down, the obvious would be to get the
alternator and battery checked out, in that order. The problem is likely in your
alternator, but also be sure to check your fan belts, making sure they haven't been glazed
and are slipping without making noise, and your battery connections, making sure both ends
of both cables are clean and tight.
To test for current draining the battery while the car is at rest, pull your positive
battery cable off and put an amp meter in series (in line) with the positive cable and the
positive battery post. Put the positive (red) probe on the post and the negative (black)
probe on the cable. With no add-on accessories that could draw current with the ignition
off, you should have zero amps (or very very close to that). Remember, one amp is a lot of
current. If you do have some aftermarket accessories running, you could disconnect them by
removing their fuse, then do the test.
If you only have a power drain when the alternator is hooked up, check to see if you have
a drain through the alternator. Just unplug the 2-pin plug jack from the alternator, set
the multimeter on "amps", put one lead on the red wire and the other on it's
connector on the alternator. You may have to reverse the leads to get a correct reading.
If you own a multimeter, you probably know this.
If you find that a battery drain is coming from the alternator, you could have a bad
diode. You can check the front-to-back resistance of each diode. Your resistance should be
more than 100 to 1 - as in any diode. If you get anything less than that - you will get
leakage that will cause the battery to run down.
The following ideas might sound stupid, but these are real-life cases, so they're worth
checking out.
- Someone I know went through the dying battery routine on the Toronado he just bought. If
he left it sitting overnight, the battery would be dead the next morning. He put an
ammeter between the battery and the cable and found about a 6-amp draw with everything
turned off. It also kept blowing the domelight fuse. He checked the fuse panel and
discovered that the output side of domelight fuse only had about 2 ohms resistance to
ground. After pulling half the wiring harness and switches out of the car looking for a
short, he discovered that one of the cigarette lighters was stuck in. Sometimes the most
irritating problems are cause by the simplest things.
- The in-dash clock just has a set of contact points that momentarily contact, that causes
the spring movement to wind up. I have seen the contacts arc together and this will cause
a small current drain.
- Charging problems can also be caused by having an incorrect or burned out idiot light
indicator bulb. Some Oldsmobiles have a hidden bulb up behind the dash (or use the
alternator indicator bulb) for the necessary resistance to power the coils in the
alternator. Occasionally, a burned-out or incorrect bulb will cause charging problems.
How can I solve the problem of starting problems due to an overheated starter?
If your Cutlass/442 is having starting problems when hot, you are experiencing the
typical heat soak problem with big block Oldsmobiles. There are several things you can do
to help out:
- First, make sure the starter is for a 455 and not anything smaller. There are two styles
of starters: regular and high-torque. Obviously the high-torque unit is a little longer as
it has more windings, and you can identify it by looking for a small extension on the
terminal that attaches the solenoid to the starter. No extension = regular starter;
extension = high torque starter.
- Check the timing. If advanced too much, it will make the engine run hotter. Retarding it
a tad could not only make your car start easier, but run a little cooler as well.
- You might want to consider using a Ford solenoid mounted on the fenderwell to cure
overheated starter solenoid, especially when using headers. Check out
http://www.geocities.com/sgwindle/starter.htm for information on how to wire this. A kit
is also available from Summit Racing - complete with wiring diagram and all necessary
connectors.
- new battery cables - replacing your cables will help your problem...but don't get the
wimpy 4 gauge cables that most auto parts stores offer. Go to your local
starter/alternator/battery shop and have them build you cables using 0 gauge wire. These
cables are normally used for big trucks. They will tell you it ain't necessary to do this.
Just agree, but get some cables built anyway. Run one from the battery to the new Ford
solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter. These are stiff cables to run, but will
REALLY help your problems.
- higher amp battery
- heavy-duty starter solenoid
- Take the starter into a starter shop where they can "rewind" it giving it more
torque. They can also change the solenoid spring out to a stiffer version, intended for
hot start problems. (I had my share problems with the rebuilt starters from auto part
stores, but this route solved the problem.)
A friend bought a high-torque mini starter. It only cost $50.00 more than a good rebuilt
stocker, and there are absolutely no problems. He never has to worry about problem
starting, even with his high compression engine.
- Several vendors offer blankets or wraps that insulate the starter. There are also
wrapping kits for headers, but they are a bear to install.
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